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匈牙利咖啡舖

2007-09-30 01:36迴響:6點閱:3109

原本以為這只是我紐約公寓巷口的一個不起眼小咖啡店。老舊的桌子和木頭地板,座位擁擠到冬日大衣無處可放、燈光昏暗到幾乎不能看書(很佩服老外可以不鑿壁穿孔亦能在黑暗中耽讀尼采或盧梭),牆上寫滿政治塗鴉並稍嫌髒穢的廁所(讓我想起以前和平東路的Roxy)、以及顏色鮮豔但粗糙難嚥的蛋糕(雖然很多人說好吃)。

 直到我認真地搜尋完上下東區蘇活格林威治村雀爾喜的咖啡店後,我開始體會到這家匈牙利咖啡店(Hungarian Pastry Shop)的美好。雖然對面就是一個觀光景點的大教堂,但相在這個觀光客比電線杆還多的城市,相對於其他咖啡店,這裡因地處偏遠而觀光客稀少,顯得格外沈靜。且或許因為是在哥倫比亞大學附近,大部分咖啡客是穿著隨便,在此地談學術與政治,或捧讀經典、計算數學和低頭寫作的知識青年中年與老年。這是紐約最自在不做作,宜於讀書與思考的咖啡店。

 當然此店還有實用的好處:咖啡店對面就是一個華麗教堂和美麗小公園(所以戶外座位永遠一位難求),而不到兩塊的咖啡可以無限續杯並且還不難喝。

 我又逐漸發現這店的名氣比我想的更大。這裡是許多哥大校友的鄉愁;在台灣著名旅遊美食女作家的咖啡店回憶中,這裡是紐約的唯一代表;在伍迪艾倫的電影「賢伉儷」中,伍迪艾倫和女學生茱麗葉路易斯在這裡討論他的小說。然後有一天,當我正在續著第三杯咖啡和論文搏鬥時,後面突然傳來有點熟悉的聲音----是個性演員麥特迪倫正自然地和朋友聊天。

 當然,更可貴的是,當星巴克佔據了哥大校內外的大部分咖啡版圖時,這家昏黃的匈牙利咖啡店,始終認真地佇立於街角,在一片城市的喧鬧中,堅持著那質樸而詩意

的咖啡氣味。

 

Hungarian.JPGhungary.JPG

 

 

附錄:誰是台灣女作家?
本來我指的是韓良露
「尋找咖啡館,為了什麼呢?表面上是找一杯好咖啡,像在東京街頭找一家聞名的專賣單品虹吸咖啡的老店,在維也納的深冬踏隆雪到Cafe Central喝米朗琪咖啡、在紐約的哥倫比亞大學校區旁的匈牙利咖啡店喝可以一杯續一杯的清淡美式蒸餾咖啡、在義大利的帕多瓦喝一杯名鎮全義的 Espresso、在伊斯坦堡的皇宮前喝濃厚的土耳其咖啡後再用咖啡渣算命、在上海的淮海路喝台灣商人開的星巴克咖啡、在巴黎聖日耳曼大道上喝花神的咖啡歐蕾。」
【在咖啡館裡,中國時報2003/05/01】



但是又赫然發現鍾文音也寫過。
「關於我個人喝咖啡的美麗角落位在阿姆斯特丹大道110和111街的匈牙利人烘烤咖啡館(Hungarian Pastry Shop),此是哥大一帶著名咖啡館,成排蛋糕點心與咖啡,亮眼如鑽。我非常喜歡在心情低盪時,來此品塊藍莓起司,寫點手記。 」
【在紐約角落生活,2005/04/16 聯合報】


我真的是很驚訝。因為常常帶朋友來說這家店很不錯,他們看到都會抱著懷疑眼光,因為實在不起眼啊。

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引用:http://blog.chinatimes.com/soundfury/archive/2007/09/30/201740.html
2007-09-30 01:36作者:張鐵志分類:紐約地理學迴響:6點閱:3109

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回應: 匈牙利咖啡舖

我要是像Ono Yoko那樣,有幾億美金的前夫遺產和無盡版稅,我一定把這家咖啡店買下來,保留原汁原味,讓它永遠留為紐約的Lennon勝地。

2008-02-23 08:59 Eva

回應: 匈牙利咖啡舖

Eva,謝謝你的分享讓我注意到這則新聞啊。這家店我只去過一次,就是為了追尋藍儂的蹤影:)

2008-02-23 00:21 張鐵志

A Beatle’s Haunt, Cafe La Fortuna, to Close Its Doors

So sad. With her, a piece of my New York died too. Eva.


February 21, 2008, 5:23 pm,New York Times
A Beatle’s Haunt, Cafe La Fortuna, to Close Its Doors
By Jennifer 8. Lee


Cafe La Fortuna was a favorite of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, who lived nearby in the Dakota. (Photo: Christian Hansen for The New York Times)Two deaths brought about the decision to close Cafe La Fortuna, the three-decade-old cafe that attracted John Lennon, Yoko Ono and many other Upper West Side neighborhood residents with its outdoor garden, opera music and Italian desserts.

The first death, which took place a few years ago, was of the longtime landlord, who had generously kept the rent for the space at 69 West 71st Street at a reasonable rate despite the escalating real estate costs in the neighborhood.
The other took place in January. It was the death of Alice Urwand, half of the husband-and-wife team that had founded and owned the cafe. Her husband, Vincent Urwand, posted a large sign in the cafe window today announcing the closing of the cafe saying, “With her a piece of me died.”
With the death of the landlord, the building was sold to new management, which informed the owners that the rent was going to jump to two and a half times what they were currently paying, according to Michael Trapani, a family friend who is also now one of the owners of the cafe.
“He just made it clear that the rate was going to be X amount of dollars,” Mr. Trapani said. “To survive we would have had to charge $10 for a cup of coffee.”
The new rent touched off an internal debate, and swirling rumors of the demise of the institution. The owners prayed at the local Roman Catholic Church that they would be able to keep it open.
But then came the death of Ms. Urwand, who was considered the “heart and soul” of the institution. (The cafe is named for her mother.) “The death of Alice that kind of convinced us that it was over,” Mr. Trapani said.
The cafe, which was founded in 1976, will close after Sunday — three days’ notice.
Shellshocked neighbors stared at the poster in the window today, lamenting the loss of a relic of the old Upper West Side that existed before the gentle waves of gentrification climbed north along the borders of Central Park, leaving Banana Republics, soul-less condominium buildings, and socioeconomic homogeneity in their wake.
“I have nothing against Starbucks,” said Marie Wallace, a neighborhood resident who was standing outside the case staring at the poster. “I like Starbucks. I have a card there, but you go in and out and no one knows you.”
Ms. Wallace, an actress, has been living in the neighborhood for 40 years and going to the cafe for 30 years. “In the ’60s and early ’70s there were like no restaurants,” she said. “There were antique shops, cleaners and mom-and-pop shops where you passed and said ‘Hello!’ Now there is no one to say hello to.”
Cafe La Fortuna charmed a steady clientele despite its cash-only policy. There are a few changes over the years. A flat-screen television was installed, which is still used to view operas. They also added wraps to the sandwich selection. But in many ways, the space has remained constant: the same black tin roof and brick walls decorated with the same vinyl records and sepia-toned, autographed photos that have accumulated over the years.
Among the photos was a series of images of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, who had once lived a few blocks away at the Dakota. Customers remember seeing Ms. Ono sitting in the back garden after Mr. Lennon was killed in 1980. Recently, the cafe owners gave her the table that Mr. Lennon used to sit at, which they had preserved.
“It’s heartbreaking,” said Henry Stram, an actor who was sitting in the cafe today, who has been going there since it opened. Back then he was a Juilliard student paying $165 a month in rent for an apartment.
“I’ve told many people,” he said. “When this place closes, it’s time to leave New York.”

2008-02-22 23:44 Eva

回應: 匈牙利咖啡舖

這家咖啡店在我以前住的附近(我住在教堂的背面,公寓出來,正對Morningside Park),我喜歡這家的糕點,或許本身是sweet tooth,相較日本太過匠氣精緻的糕點,我反而比較欣賞美國不修邊幅自然不造作的糕點.可惜住在那附近的時間不常,搬離開後,活動範圍再也沒超過96街.但早晨沿著110街往西走,略帶濕氣,混和著泥土和咖啡香的空氣,彷彿一直存在在我的鼻腔

2007-10-11 04:43 Wawa

回應: 匈牙利咖啡舖

我每次到紐約都要到那裡坐一下,那裡的咖啡不一定比別家好,甜點也差強人意,但就是那個起方,那個氣氛,那些坐在裡面讀書討論的人們,雖然換了時空,也換了一群人,總讓我回到十年前,帶著兩個皮箱和一個夢想來到紐約的心情,那種充滿不可知的期待,無限的的求知熱情,讓我得以再打起精神,重回現實世界努力工作,認真生活。

2007-09-30 21:14 V.V.

回應: 匈牙利咖啡舖

**早晨的咖啡**

通常還是
什麼都不加
就靜靜地喝了它

明明知道
等著倒入奶精或砂糖的
一天
還來不及思考
純粹之必要

黑色簾幕
就這麼拉開
所有神秘的
舞台

2007-09-30 08:37 奶油蛋花湯

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