Nectar Corner
六年級生, 喜歡用理性的方式探討葡萄酒. 飲酒過量, 有害健康, 未成年不得飲酒!
 
關於莊才勳
│訂閱莊才勳 RSS 2.0 Feed
文章 - 61, 迴響 - 100, 引用 - 0, 本格總瀏覽人次 - 105888
中時電子報 › 中時部落格 › 美食部落格總覽 › 莊才勳

文章分類

相簿

Publicité

即時資訊

新書介紹

部落格觀察

最新文章

最新迴響

閱讀排行榜

迴響排行榜

墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

2008-04-28 10:56 ｜迴響：8｜點閱：2917

(原載於分身網站)

據說香檳杯"Coupe" 杯型是依照法國皇后馬莉亞安東尼(Marie Antoinette)的胸部做成的，那"Flute" 杯型是不是依照法國國王路易十六 (King Louis XVI)的………..

兩篇與葡萄酒有關的情色新聞:

“曾獲選美國「色情奧斯卡」影后，以藝名莎瓦娜珊普森(Savanna Samson)聞名於成人錄影帶界的娜塔莉奧麗佛羅斯(Natalie Oliveros)3月21日在紐約寓所中，展示負責釀造，獲得葡萄酒專家羅伯特帕克(Robert Parker)評為「特優」的「夢幻一號」(Sogno Uno)紅酒。” 路透/Keith Bedford”

“美國密西根氣泡酒酒廠生產一款叫做“SEX”的粉紅氣泡酒，據酒廠老闆Larry Mawby 開玩笑的說他根本沒有想到用這個名字申請商標會被批准下來，現在他這款酒賣到連補貨都來不及……” Tom Stevenson Wine Report 2006

這幾天很多報紙的”娛樂版”都在報導夢幻一號(Sogno Uno) 這一瓶義大利葡萄酒。我想大家之所以對這篇報導有興趣，主要是因為釀酒師娜塔莉奧麗佛羅斯本身是”非常有名”的成人電影演員，而且酒標上有著煽情的照片，很容易讓人想入非非。至於帕克(Robert Parker)評這一款酒為「特優」的部份(其實他給的分數只不過是91分!)也沒什麼，帕克一年不曉得給多少款酒90分以上的分數。其實這篇新聞早在去年11月在英國Decanter雜誌就已經報導過了，只是當時主流媒體沒有注意到而已。

至於”SEX”的粉紅氣泡酒的部份，位於密西根區生產氣泡酒的L. Mawby酒廠老闆Larry Mawby ，當他聽到他申請的商標”SEX”竟然會被批准下來時，差點打翻他的咖啡，之後他把附近他酒廠賣不出去的氣泡酒買來，然後加一點紅酒變成粉紅氣泡酒以”SEX”買出。很多酒廠對於L. Mawby把他們多年的庫存買走深表感激，但是看到他用這樣的方式賣出他們的酒時卻都啞口無言。

在聖經舊約創世記第九章第二十節中首先提到葡萄酒：挪亞做起農夫來，栽了一個葡萄園。他喝了園中的酒便醉了…；聖經新約裡最後的晚宴，耶穌基督提到葡萄酒代表祂為世人所流的血，洗淨世人的罪惡，有重獲新生命的象徵。而單就葡萄酒在西方宗教祭祀上的象徵義意來說，就不難瞭解它所代表的不再只是一般的酒精飲料….. (”資料取自於www.nkhc.edu.tw/develop/探索葡萄酒的生命根源.doc). 因為葡萄酒與宗教有著如此密切的關係，所以早期的釀酒人幾乎都是修道士而葡萄園也多半為修道院所持有。在當時葡萄酒因為被視為是聖品，所以整個釀酒過程都是以非常嚴謹的方式進行。據說法國勃根地地區的葡萄園之所以會有如此詳細的區分，都是因為修道士們當時嘗遍了各地塊的泥土後所作出來的結論。

葡萄酒曾經是夜夜笙歌糜爛與墮落的象徵，也是聖經裡重獲新生命的象徵，游走於聖人與罪人之間數千年，如今與性牽涉在一起也不是什麼大不了的事情。

我想選擇墮落或重生是個人的事，跟葡萄酒無關!!!

▲上一篇：雋酩選單一純麥威士忌美食宴
▼下一篇：葡萄酒第一家族
加入書籤：         
引用：http://blog.chinatimes.com/nectarcorner/archive/2008/04/28/273339.html
2008-04-28 10:56 ｜作者：莊才勳｜分類：葡萄酒雜談｜迴響：8｜點閱：2917

迴響與引用列表

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

Single vineyard wines:

Some small winery purchase grape instead of growing themselves. To respect (or better supplier's relationship) mixed with terroir concern are for some single vineyard wines in California.

The one second brand but turns out the best Pinot that I mention in last fall is actually a mixer of three counties.

You may also notice many California appellation wines are rated better than reserved ones (most likely single vineyard).

Even terroir needs blending to supplement each other. Pinot needs 3~5 clones to balance it.

Last Oct., I was in Taiwan. Most good taste or good value California wines are hardly can be found. Some no sales wine
are being put as budget ones. It appears
California wine importers in Taiwan are not sophisticate.

Chilean wine is only good in alter years because its weather starts 1999.

Argentina has good weather like Washington state and high attitude but wine making still needs improving.

Australia has great wines and great value also not supper good but expansive wines. The Garange in last several vintages is one of over priced ones. (I had many really supper deal and luck such as W/S 96 Shriz for $30.)

Robert Parker is heavily promoting Spanish wines. Which I notice about 1/3
of them are reliable. Spanish has old vines and large quantity of grape because of its communism planting in last 70 years. Its quality still a watch out issue.

I suggest you pay atention to California
Pinot. I have a feeling it will top to French Pinot within five years. I has been surprisingly strong performer every year since 2002. All weather or terroir are supporting future advance.

As I was suprised a few months ago by
Paso Robles Mediterranean blending comes
so wonderful. The next taste of Reserve
wines in one of my favor Cab. vineyard turned out was so and so. Then, I read
James Laube introduction of them, he stated they were well known (or I did
not pay attention before.)

Washington State Melot and Syrah are also very good wines. There are super deals in them too.

Plan visit LA, I will glad to share good wines with you.

Roy Yang

2008-05-31 13:01 ｜ Roy Yang

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

Hi Roy

Thanks for expressing your view on "terroir".

Interestingly, more and more Californian wineries are adopting single-vineyard labelling, from what I know Kistler makes at least 8 different Chardonnays from different plots of vineyard.

US is a major wine-producing region and Taiwan isn't, so wine consumers behave differently, in my view more like the UK consumers. At first Californian wine was our budget choice, then Australian wine, and now Chilian and Argentian wines. Budget French wine, due to Carrefour heavy marketing, took market by storm last year. Budget Spanish wine is taking over UK wine market, the same thing might happen in Taiwan too.

Drink Up!

2008-05-31 10:47 ｜ 莊才勳

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

Hi Hammer: I am not picking on you but enhancing your point of "Clos" in Burgundy.

One reason California's Pinot wins surprising highly rated is exactly to weather, direction of ocean breath, sun angles and wine making.

The least believable area for Pinot is
Santa Barbara.

It was thought too south for great Pinot planting, yet the east/west directed valley with very cool night breeze and long day time (west face) sun shine plus continued innovation in wine making combined for Santa Barbara in Pinot.

I tasted over 20 well rated Pinots with
my mother-in-law (with her 20 years plus
wine tasting from Taipei) last fall. The best one we found out was produced there as a second label (It is really a joke).

If we may agree on these "Clos" factors,
how can we deny or reject Terroir in different part of world ?

AS I have pointed out CdF in 2003 on has been so successful, it may have something to do with worm weather that we are experiencing.

If weather may lead change in "Terroir",
your unchanging love to France seems not
adopting to nature.

Another example is Monterey area, there is a larger and deeper canyon than Grand canyon outside in the ocean which ends a 50 degrees/F of difference between day and night. Some east/west direction valleys produce well known Pinots.

One more new finding area of terroir for
the best Pinot (W/S 95~97) is Sonoma Ridge in Sonoma Coast area. It is facing Pacific ocean on top of mountains and west sunshine. Many old timers in Cabs. from Napa have turned themselves into this new fond of Pinot.

They all meet your listed factors, shall you accept your own standard ?

Frankly, France has a long way to learn from California wine making in quality as well in cost control.

When a persistent wine testing over a 30 years period and France can not even make one into top 5, these facts shall
alert to France, if I were a Franch wine maker. (How many French wines were cooked after 30 years is another alarming fact.)

Look at how much Taiwan spent for French airplanes and how many are ready to defense for you. That is one side of French problem of living in fading glory.

Roy Yang


Roy Yang


2008-05-31 06:59 ｜ Roy Yang

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

Gimmick on label:

Many casual or strange subjects have been used on wine label. In the long run (say five years), people's interest lost to these gimmick or their trust then gimmick fades away.

Hammer's long life in favor of old world terroir to new world terroir may limit him to a corner of missing a lot fun in
wine tasting or emotional miss tasting wines.

Personally, I have a hard time to justify French wine price to its quality (unless it reaches a level over W/S 95). In general, it is not worth it, if you understand what means comparison for what you spend on. (There are still some
good value French wines but very limited selections.)

A respectable old timer (professional wine critic),James Laube, wrote in his monthly column not too long ago, one of his personal joy was not tasting a great wine (a few people has more wine tasting than him in our time) but he could buy an excellent wine at a very good deal. I totally agree with him of the joy to spend money wisely in wine.

I hope Hammer may look things at different point. Even, French well known
wine makers send their new blood to Napa
for scientific training. UC/Davis has probably contributed more than any other
university for wine research in the world.

Honestly, how many long lasting realistic subjects we may find out that is made in France ?

France's dream of past glory is not far from Chinese's shadow of the lost center in the world.

To live with reality is more practical
and happier, I believe.

Good luck to Hammer.

Roy Yang

2008-05-31 05:35 ｜ Roy Yang

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

其實光是看1976年巴黎評比後法國人的反應,跟2006評比後法國人的反應就知道,就算美國酒贏了評比又如何,法國人酒照賣錢照賺而且酒價這兩年反而飆漲的一蹋糊塗. 不過Terroir 這個理念新世界產區也逐漸成熟,幾個產區像澳洲的Barossa Valley, 美國的Napa Valley,紐西蘭的Marlborough 等也逐漸建立起自己別於其他產區所擁有的定位與特色,值得期待!

2008-05-01 10:48 ｜ 莊才勳

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

真的很感謝你的回覆 !這也是我要的答案.
也許這是我各人的偏執狂,"我從不喝新世界的酒"
每個葡萄酒專家,專業的,業餘的不管有多專業到最後都會回歸到terroir.承認吧,葡萄酒的terroir是屬於法國的,不是1976的幾瓶blind tasting的加州酒可以推翻的 !就像加州的Napa valley那天做出美味的豆干,這是他們的事,但硬說他們出產的豆干比台灣大溪的豆干美味,以他們傳媒的力量,這世界或許真的會相信加州豆干比大溪豆干美味.terroir萬歲, 土壤萬歲,Les vins de France(法國葡萄酒)萬歲 !

2008-04-30 23:40 ｜ Hammer

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

Hi Hammer

我同意clos 內的微氣候影響酒的味道與風格很大,但是土壤的重要性絕對不低於微氣候,原因是葡萄藤所吸取的養份並不是都在土壤表皮,而是在幾公尺的地底下,而老藤的根部因為深入土壤, 能夠吸取到不同的養份,所以口感香氣也不同,複雜度也會比較高. 據我了解修道院的修道士因為長期品嘗各地塊生產的酒,然後發現某些地區的酒品質總是比別人好,才會有不同分級出現.

2008-04-29 22:56 ｜ 莊才勳

回應： 墮落或重生: 葡萄酒的不同面貌

“據說法國勃根地地區的葡萄園之所以會有如此詳細的區分, 都是因為修道士們遍嚐了各地塊的泥土後所做出來的結論”
個人認為以三國演義的角度來看”遍嚐了各地塊的泥土”是有點悲壯加上一點神話的色彩.但以三國誌的角度來說可能就要有比較客觀的科學精神 !
http://www.burgundy-wines.fr/index.php?p=84&art_id=116
This period saw the emergence of the "clos" as units of property, of the notion of "terroir" and "cru", and the selection of grape varieties. Most existing appellations were already recognised and defined (as to area) in the Middle Ages and the "climat" nailed down to the nearest metre and its boundaries respected. No wine-growing region in the world is more closely regulated, or bound by rules of greater antiquity.
與其說土壤是最重要的因素,倒不如如說是勃根地人強調的在”clos”內的”climat”.
也就是說在石牆圍繞的葡萄園所俱備的微氣候.而與這微氣候最有關的是地形,風量及向陽的角度.由於勃根地名園皆在山坡中段,土壤在此有沖刷的問題,土壤的issue之於此地的terroir可能要退居比較後面的因素.個人才疏學淺,如有錯誤觀念請版主指教.

2008-04-29 19:55 ｜ Hammer

回應這篇文章

打*者為必填欄位

*回應標題：
*姓名 / 暱稱：
*E-Mail：
您的網站：
*回應內容：  
*驗證：
請輸入上圖六位數字驗證碼：

 
＜2008年4月
＞
日一二三四五六
303112345
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
27282930123
45678910

24885.gifgoldenharvest.jpg

編輯部落格最新文章

作家部落格最新文章

來賓部落格最新文章

旅遊部落格最新文章

財經部落格最新文章

電影部落格最新文章

體育部落格最新文章

音樂部落格最新文章

美食部落格最新文章

公益部落格最新文章

數位部落格最新文章